This morning I got the opportunity to preview the retrospective of the late Alexander McQueen's work in Savage Beauty, on view at the Met from this Wednesday May 4th through July 31st.
The designer's quote "I am a romantic scizophrenic," opened the show, and set the tone for an overwhelming collection of gowns, suits, capes, bodysuits, accessories, shoes and headpieces. Illustrating how McQueen was able to see beyond the physical constraints of clothing, the show focuses on the other-worldliness of his women and the juxtaposition of wonder and terror that his designs exude.
What struck me most was McQueen's ability to marry hard and soft. For example, his famous black duck feather dress from his autumn/winter 2009/10 collection, pictured above, shows the overtly feminine defined shoulders and nipped in waist of 1950s couture, while referencing the ominous characteristic of the Raven in Romanticism. McQueen's tartan pieces, both nationalistic and tough, mix with lace and tulle for a punky Anglo elegance.
The exhibit also features a plethora of Phillip Treacy's hats and Shaun Leane corsets, which often acted as the finishing touches for McQueen's eccentric and performance-based runway shows.
